Rittenhouse

Rittenhouse Spring/Summer 2010

Rittenhouse Spring/Summer 2010

Rittenhouse Spring/Summer 2010

Rittenhouse Spring/Summer 2010

I don't often blog about fashion, but I just had to share these gorgeous finds by Sydney-based fashion label Rittenhouse.... Their spring/summer '10 range is just pure simple understated loveliness. These pieces seem somehow more French than Australian in style... love the layering, the muted colours and soft stripes. Purchase from the Rittenhouse website or from stockists listed here.

HOWEVER what really caught my eye whilst browsing the Rittenhouse website was their 2009 collab with Swiss husband-and-wife artists Michael Husmann and Pascale Mira Tschaeni (aka Husmann/Tschaeni) Oh. My. Goodness. I cannot believe the gorgeousness. Unfortunately many of the loveliest pieces are sold out. Which totally serves me right for catching on about 9 months too late. Where have I BEEN!? bleh.

Rittenhouse / Husmann/Tschaeni 2009 collaboration

Interview - Arabella Ramsay

Arabella Ramsay's winter 2010 collection - Nomadic Intellect. SERIOUSLY loving that cowgirl dress top left!

Arabella Ramsay's brand new Pop-up store in the GPO... Temporary Pleasures stocks Arabella's designs alongside a carefully curated range of pieces by Funkis, Superfine, Lucy Folk and more...

Beautiful designs from Arabella's latest summer range... Cuteness.

Arabella Ramsay is such a brilliant local design success story. After growing up in a very creative household in country Victoria, Arabella moved to Melbourne in 2001 to study textile design at RMIT. After graduating, she spent a year travelling and studying in Paris... and on her return, launched her eponymous label - in a kind of 'what the heck', round-about sorta way! Her unique handmade bags and accessories already had a word-of-mouth following, and it seems it was a natural transition for the Arabella Ramsay fashion range to grow from this foundation.

Arabella's designs strike the perfect balance - they're quirky but pretty, feminine but not too girly, they have a freshness and youth about them - yet each piece channels a distinctly folky, vintage feel. Arabella's passion for textile design is clear - she bravely unites an eclectic variety of fabrics in each new range, from Liberty prints to delicate French lace, denim, leather, and beautiful hand-finished detailing such as embroidery, patchwork, applique and crochet.

Arabella opened her first store in Armadale in 2006, and has quickly gathered a loyal local following. In the last few years she has participated in Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, Mercedes Fashion Week, the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival and more... and has even collaborated with Sportsgirl!

Just this month, Arabella has opened a second store of sorts - Temporary Pleasures is a Pop-Up in Melbourne's beautiful GPO building. Alongside Arabella's own designs, the store features a carefully curated selection of pieces by other brilliant labels such as Funkis, Superfine, and jeweller Lucy Folk.. (Arabella's cousin!)

If you happen to pop into one of Arabella Ramsay's two Melbourne stores this weekend, I think you might see me there. I have not been this inspired to make a shopping trip for quite some time!

Tell us a little about your background – what path led you to founding your own label?

I grew up in country Victoria.. on a sheep farm… my family is very creative, my dad is an illustrator, my brother a photographer and my mum is the one who influenced me the most to get into fashion… being amongst a household filled with creative ideas led me to study textile design. I moved to Melbourne and studied at RMIT …I suppose after completing this course and travelling for a year I just thought what the heck… I had a bit of a friend following for my accessories and sold them in boutiques around Melbourne (although not many) and thus the label just grew.

I also studied fashion over in Paris for a year… so I think this stint inspired me in a lot of ways… my shops have a little French touch to them in some way… I collected posters from this great taxidermy shop in Paris called Deyrolle and these are scattered throughout my stores… I also sent back a taxidermy French rabbit… who sits at the counter.

More shots from Arabella's new GPO Pop-up!

Your store in Armadale opened in 2006, and in just 4 years the Arabella Ramsay label has grown into a successful, well known and loved local brand. Did you ever expect this kind of success I such a short space of time? At what moment did you realise ‘wow, this is really going to happen!’?

You know I suppose I still don’t really think wow this is really going to happen…. does anyone? I think not knowing and having set backs every now and then makes you want to try harder…… I love a challenge and feel this industry is probably the best industry for that…. I started pretty young and just had big ideas and dreams that’s all that you really need is the confidence to follow your heart.

How would you describe the Arabella Ramsay design aesthetic? Is this a good reflection of your own personal sense of style?

Yes it definitely reflects my country upbringing and my love of textiles and colours and quirky naïve art… colour is very important to me it reflects my mood and I obviously want people to feel good about themselves so I always use lots of colours and prints in my collections….. I try not to take it too seriously and like to have a bit of fun…


What does a typical day at work involve for you?

After my morning porridge and tea... I get into work… check emails… read some bits and pieces that people have sent me.. look at swatch cards.. liase with India and China… have a few meetings a day with production / pattern maker / brand manager / store manager… I do like to go downstairs at some stage and do the windows or buy some flowers re-do the racks… (as I work above the shop). I try and be creative at some stage…

More from Winter 2010. Black and white check... simple gorgeousness.

Where do you turn for creative inspiration – books, international magazines, the internet, your environment, travel, nature, family or friends… etc?

I travel a couple of times a year and take lots of photos… go to lots of exhibitions … look at architecture… read...

I read a lot actually have a book buying addiction… I go through stages - right now I’m loving interior design books… I also travel to the country and to my house by the sea.... and hang out with my family...

Grazia story featuring Arabella's beautiful home in Apollo Bay. (Double click the image for a closer view in a new window) Photos by Chris Court, Styling by Sibella Court. Thanks to Grazia for allowing me to share!

Which other designers, artists or creative people are you most inspired by at the moment?

Right now I’m obsessed with Josef Frank…. also aboriginal artist Wintjiya Napaltjarri… illustrator Aurel Schmidt, Lou Doillon….the V&A quilt exhibition in London…Tracey Emin.

What are you most proud of professionally?

Getting this far...

What would be your dream project?

I would love to open a shop in Paris or Berlin… or do some collaboration at say a store like Merci in Paris... and showcase an Australian fashion/textiles exhibition.. with all the help from my family… my brother could have his Australian photographs on the walls... my mum’s quilts would be turned into clothing and ottomans… my dad would do a massive mural.. my cousins jewellery and my fashion wares would be scattered around… I think something crafty and Australian would be such a great thing to exhibit overseas…

What are you looking forward to?

Camping this weekend and after that a trip to new york…

Melbourne Questions –

Your favourite neighbourhood in Melbourne for shopping / strolling / people watching?

Breakfast over northside / Fitzroy or the city… lots of interesting characters in the city...

Where do you shop in Melbourne for the tools of your trade? (fabric samples, threads, sketching materials, reference material?)

I go vintage shopping in Geelong and Daylesford… I buy remnants from everywhere… Kazari Warehouse in Richmond… Brunschwig and Fils for inspiration… Savers...

Where / what was the last great meal you ate in Melbourne?

Cumulus, steak tartare.

Where would we find you on a typical Saturday morning?

In bed with the paper….a croissant.. and a cup of tea.

Melbourne’s best kept secret? Its coffee… would have to be the best in the world.

Huge thanks to Arabella for her time, and to Carli at Grazia for the hook-up! :) Also thanks to Grazia for kindly allowing the use of their beautiful story featuring Arabella's home in Apollo Bay.

Beattie

Hand-crafted clothes by Sydney crafter Beattie - loving that little cropped grey singlet with the black / green binding... - only $45.00 and available here (...but not for long!)

Market day

Beattie is the colourful hand-crafted clothing label of Sydney-based Beatrice Lanser. I love the brave colours, wacky patterns and imperfect hand-stitching. Beattie's prints are just so bright and cheerful... I am convinced that wearing one of her fabulous dresses or a pair of her wicked printed stockings would put you in a great mood all day!

Beattie's great little blog documents new creations and market stalls, as well as other fun crafty endeavours and outings. On top of making super cute clothes, and taking lovely photos, Beatrice seems to have an enviably vibrant, somewhat eccentric social life - evident in her staging of a spontaneous backyard 'enamel exhibition' recently, in which her extensive collection of vintage enamel cookware was 'exhibited' in her backyard and then gifted to deserving friends! Brilliant! (I so would have snapped up that polka-dot pale blue mug/jug.. so cute!)

'Enamel Thursday' backyard exhibition by Beatrice Lanser

You can find Beattie at the Paddington Markets in Sydney (Oxford st every Saturday, 10.00am - 5.00pm), and she also has a little Etsy store (sorry not much on there at the moment - be sure to check back!)

Giveaway (again!) - Nikki Gabriel's new ebony knitting needles!

Handmade limited edition ebony knitting needles by Australian textile designer Nikki Gabriel

You may remember my interview a few months back with incredible Australian textile designer Nikki Gabriel? Nikki makes the most delicate, exquisite knitwear and knitted textiles, and also produces a range of beautiful handspun yarns, and DIY knitting patterns. Her latest project slides effortlessly into this growing collection of bespoke knitting products - stunning limited edition handmade ebony knitting needles!

One of Nikki's designs, included in The Endless Garment - The New Craft of Machine Knitting exhibition, opening at RMIT tonight!

Oh my. It seems so completely magical to knit on a pair of hand-crafted ebony needles! Click clack, click clack - it's like something out of the pages of a Grimm's fairy-tale!

Lucky for us, Nikki has kindly offered one pair of these beautiful needles as a giveaway for Design Files readers! (Yes, that's right, 2 giveaways in one WEEK!? Hey, who's counting!?). To be in the running, please leave a comment here before the end of the day (Midnight tonight, Melbourne time). I will randomly draw a winner and announce tomorrow!

Nikki is exhibiting some of her wonderful work in an exhibition which opens tonight at RMIT, entitled The Endless Garment - The New Craft of Machine Knitting. The show is part of the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival cultural program, and features INCREDIBLE work by some super-famous international designers including Issey Miyake and Sandra Backlund (whose work you see below - amazing!)...

The amazing work of Swedish knitwear designer Sandra Backlund - photo Annika Aschberg

More Sandra Backlund magic... photo - Peter Gehrke, Adamsky.

Nikki will be taking artist's floor talk tomorrow at the gallery, and is also running a hands-on knitting workshop tomorrow afternoon in the RMIT gallery for a small group of enthusiasts! The cost of this workshop includes a tool kit of Nikki's own bespoke yarns, knitting pattern, and of course a pair of the brand new ebony needles! Places are limited so act fast if you're keen!

The Endless Garment - The New Craft of Machine Knitting
RMIT Gallery
344 Swanston st
Melbourne

Opens tonight Feb 11th, 6.00pm - 8.00pm
Exhibition runs Feb 12th - March 21st 2010

Huge thanks to Nikki for such a lovely giveaway! On your marks, get set, COMMENT! x

The Social Studio

The Social Studio - all photos by Raphael Kilpatrick

Social Studio designers hard at work

The Social Studio Label launch at Federation Square last year (more shots here).

Been meaning to post about The Social Studio for sooo long. I am sure you've heard about this wonderful local Melbourne initiative... such a brilliant, thoughtfully executed idea.

The Social Studio formed in March 2009 and opened its doors in September last year. It's essentially an inner city social and creative hub, where the local refugee community are encouraged to be involved in a unique retail / training / community concept. The Social Studio is a supportive and nurturing creative space for these budding young designers from varied backgrounds to meet, learn and feel part of the local community. In addition to offering TAFE certificate training in clothing production and design, the centre also offers legal advice, counselling, tutoring, driving lessons and training in retail and hospitality. All under one tiny roof at 128 Smith st Collingwood!

Whilst the Social Studio offers valuable training and links to employment and further education, it's most important immediate offering to participants is a safe place of belonging, where newly arrived refugees can meet others and begin to form networks in the established local community.

The Social Studio is a retail store as well as a buzzing workshop... pop in anytime between 8.30am - 6.00pm 7 days a week to browse the latest creations! They also run public sewing workshops and evening lectures featuring local designers... keep your eye on their website for more details!

AND PS you can also visit the Social Studio Cafe for coffee, breakfast or lunch, 7 days! Geez, is there anything these guys don't do!?

The Social Studio Cafe

The Social Studio
128 Smith st
Collingwood

Open 7 days
8.30am - 6.00pm

Hopeless

Vintage-inspired hand-made lingerie by Melbourne label Hopeless... love the Liberty print! Photos - Jo Duck.

Goodness me, two fashion posts in one week? What has come over me?

...But how can I possibly resist this gorgeous vintage inspired hand-made lingerie by Melbourne label Hopeless? Love the 50's styling in these shots too... and I may or may not now also have a major girl crush on their beautiful smiley Model, Lulu Wagstaffe.

Gaby Adamidis is the designer and maker behind Hopeless. At just 27 (I think?), this girl is going places! There is a cute (but not super current) little interview with Gaby here.

Hopeless has an etsy shop here. ALSO, Gaby's blog is super gorgeous... oh, and they're twittering!

Bhalo

Bhalo Panels and Pockets dress in Tangerine/Violet - $109

Bhalo is a new Melbourne-based fashion label with a focus on ethical production methods and the empowerment of disadvantaged people in developing countries. Bhalo uses hand-loomed, hand-dyed and hand-embroidered cotton made by women in NGO-run workshops in rural Bangladesh, giving them much needed employment and training, and providing them with simple life-changing services such as education/childcare for their children and basic healthcare.

Bhalo is the brainchild of young Melbourne designer Jess Priemus, who has teamed with Bangladeshi business partner Minhas Uddin Shimul to realise this ambitious creative vision! I am loving the simple, loose summery shapes and muted colours ...wouldn't that 'Panels and Pockets' dress be a gorgeous, versatile addition to any summer wardrobe!?

All designs are available to purchase on the Bhalo website, and also be sure to pop over to the Bhalo blog and give Jess your support and encouragement!

Bhalo Layer top in grey/blush - $125

Gorgeous Big Friendship bracelets! - $16.00

Silk Jamdani top in Tangerine/Pink - $129

Alannah Hill's fabulous website

Screenshots from Alannah Hill's new website... amazingness.

Alannah Hill's new website is amazing! Well, actually, I don't know how new it is. But it seems new. And it is amazing! Such magical detail in every page.... It's designed by Melbourne's Paper Stone Scissors and built by Flint Interactive. (Thanks for the tip-off Mum!)

ALSO how awesome is this little movie featuring Alannah Hill's Autumn/Winter 2009 'Winter Wonderland' collection? Bit out of date now I know, but I love it! The fantastical clothes... the layers and patterns... and of course the fabulous kitschy wintery styling. And Alannah! Who knew she was so brilliantly entertaining!? Nice work.

Interview - Nikki Gabriel

Nikki Gabriel delicate knitwear designs

Distressed cable - collaboration with Akira

From Nikki Gabriel's New Collection

hand dyed silk

Hand-dyed wool and silk with plant dyes, done at the Australian Ballet Dye Labs for Winter 05.

There's craft, and then there's craft.

Don't get me wrong, I totally support craft in all it's forms - your Nanna's delicate lacework tablecloth, your daughter's first holey attempt at knitting a scarf, and even that costume you made for your 5 yr old to wear at halloween, using just coloured cardboard, sticky felt and a stapler. Craft is for everyone!

HOWEVER some clever crafters are just true masters, with a level of skill one can only muster after years of experience, passion, practise, and sheer perservence. Nikki Gabriel is one such crafter. Her work is exquisite - stunning, unique hand and machine knitted garments which fall so delicately from the wearer's frame it's as if each fibre is clinging on for dear life. Truly unique. And what's more, the entire range is made right here in Melbourne by Nikki and her team of talented knitters!

I am so in awe of Nikki's incredible body of work, and her unique vision for knitwear and knitted textiles. Her recent foray into handspun yarns and DIY patterns seems like such a natural progression.... (Watch out Debbie Bliss!).

Do check out Nikki's beautiful designs, and her bespoke yarns and patterns on her website and blog.

Tell me a little about your background – what path led you to what you’re doing now?

I was a bit of a gypsy teen and moved from city to city; and was always interested in how design engages with and improves life. I toyed with different soft products that reflected this.

It was only when I moved to Melbourne in 1997 that I decided to study textiles at RMIT, and gravitated towards knit. After graduating I created a small handmade knitwear range and sold it to a few retailers.

Sales grew quickly over a couple of seasons, and I very suddenly found myself running a full-time business. I have tried to very carefully position the business to function as a more process driven studio, with a genuine affection for the product.

Having worked in several commercial knitwear design roles has informed and influenced a direction for my own work; seeking to find an antithesis to that pace of production.

Most evident of this, is in the time I spend in sourcing the material to work with from its raw stage, and finding the creative reward within this, and every design step thereafter. It makes for a slower production, but allows for originality and a sincere result.

Lace garments made on a domestic knitting machine

You’ve worked with some incredible designers including Akira Isogawa and Aurelio Costarella… what have been some favourite special projects or collaborations?

It’s a great compliment getting interest from Akira Isogawa and Aurelio Costarella, and having the opportunity to collaborate with them both. It’s allowed me the chance to surpass my own limits, and create some amazing pieces.

I’ve also worked with Jenny Irwin on a knit component for costume for Bangarra Dance Theatre; which was a really interesting design brief. I enjoyed every aspect of it.

Can you give us an insight into the inner workings of your business? How is the business structured? Do you employ helpers or do you do most of the day-to-day tasks yourself?

I design and produce new collections twice a year. I have 8 hand and machine knitters who work on a casual basis for me. During production they are full-time.

I train the knitters in the hand-made productions; as I write all my own patterns which are a bit unconventional and scribbly compared to regular knitting patterns, and the knitting can be labour intensive. Some knitters have worked for me for 5 years now, and I couldn’t possibly function without them, as they're just brilliant.

I am now working on my own bespoke yarn collections; which involve sourcing fleece from the farmers, learning about the grading of quality of wools, alpacas, cashmeres and mohairs, and understanding how their processed to fibre. This is a great project; I get out into the country, meet really wonderful and surprising people, where everyone has a yarn to spin (excuse the pun).

Natural cotton and alpaca bespoke yarns by Nikki Gabriel

I’ve been designing my own knitting patterns to accompany the bespoke yarn; and came up with the concept of the Construction Patterns. The Construction Patterns are an accumulative pattern, where one shape becomes something else by adding another shape to it.

This took some time to develop and refine, and I worked together with my husband, Anthony Chiappin who runs a graphic design agency. As we were developing the product, it evolved further into a concept of interactive design; as it involves the maker in the process of building, innovating and interpretation – yes, all whilst knitting.

Nikki Gabriel construction DIY knitting patterns

Where do you turn for inspiration – books, magazines or the web? Do you pay attention to trends in the broader design world like architecture, film, etc?

I love the tactility of books and magazines, I read novels and spend a lot of time in bookstores; looking at print mediums, graphics and illustration; I’m interested in the textures of the images and words.

However it’s nature that inspires me the most; a bushwalk is visually intoxicating for me. I grew up in remote South Africa and it’s there I developed a habit for observing the character and tactility of things I find in amongst nature.

Which designers, artists or creative people are you inspired by?

I’m inspired by Indigenous Craft, in the resourceful application of materials, and in the ceremony, ritual and purpose of making. I love the work of the basketry and textile artists from South Africa and the tapa cloth makers from New Zealand.

Friends who are in creative businesses inspire me; it’s sometimes so tough, and, I’m enamoured of their courage and determination when I see their successes.

What does a typical day at work involve for you?

Mornings are my higher energy time, so I develop new work. This might involve sample knitting, sketching, pattern writing or experimenting (yarn twisting, colouration with plant dyes, felting, heat shrinking, painting and spraying fabrics etc).

In the afternoon I’m co-ordinating production and deliveries, or I go out to source new materials. My studio is at home, so I try to inject some versatility in my routine, although close to delivery deadlines and as I’m always running behind schedule, its just production 7 days a week, morning and afternoon.

Fibres

What are you most proud of professionally?

Little special toasting moments; like when my first season sold out; or the sublime memory of sitting with Akira in his studio while he showed me fabrics for his new collection to match yarns with.

What would be your dream project?

To receive a commission to travel the world to look for the most unusual and exotic fibres to work with, once I’ve found them spend days exploring their characteristics to discover what to make with them.

What are you looking forward to?

Being an old lady surrounded by a life-time of objects that friends have made; and fibres and yarns that I’ve collected.



Melbourne Questions!

Where do you shop in Melbourne for the tools of your trade?

Handspinners & Weavers Guild, Carlton – yarn, fleece, dye, spinning tools.

Australian Wool & Sheep Show, Bendigo – fleece & yarn.

Lefflers, Kensington – leather & fur.

Where do you shop in Melbourne for unique and/or handcrafted textiles and fashion?

Mmmmm, I’m a bit of sucker for high fashion; so I windowshop to admire the designers I can’t afford; like Marais in Royal Arcade, or Assin in Little Collins St. For something special I can afford, I’ll go to Pieces of Eight Brunswick St, Cottage Industry Gertrude St, RPM Lygon St, and Claude the Bird Armadale.

Where would we find you on a typical Saturday morning?

Queen Victoria Market, with a pitstop at Seven Seeds for Coffee.

Melbourne’s best kept secret?

Plant Craft Cottage in the Botanical Gardens.

Thanks so much for sharing you beautiful work with us Nikki!